Tips for gardening in dry times

by Bruce Jones, Fall 2002

"It has to rain sometime!" I made that statement years ago at the beginning of our several-year deficit of precipitation here in Rappahannock. The statement coincided with a personal planting of trees, shrubs, grasses, and perennials, for the attraction and enticement of wildlife—but also for enhancing the beauty and diversity of our land for its human inhabitants!

It is now four years later, with plantings done every year, including native grasses, spring woodland wildflowers, and other meadow species—both sun loving and shade tolerant. Most have made it only because of extensive hand watering after the initial planting process.

Native plants, such as the black-eyed susan, tend to do much better in droughts than nonnatives, are beneficial to native wildlife, and can match the finest cultivars in beauty. Photo courtesy Paul R. Farmer.

Most native perennial plants do well with little attention if they have the chance to become established for at least one year. My experience is that, under normal conditions, native and nonnative shrubs and trees take three to four years to establish themselves so they can make it on their own. The root systems of shrubs and trees take a much longer time to establish themselves. Some perennial plants exist well under drought conditions, including columbines, milkweeds, most asters, some of the phlox, some of the black-eyed Susans (rudbeckia), most of the goldenrods, and most of the coneflowers.

Here are some general tips for ensuring the survival of perennials, shrubs, and trees:

• If the plant is in a container, loosen the root ball, shaking out as much potting soil as you can (pry out center of root ball with your hands). Potting soil dries out faster than regular garden soil.
• When amending the soil before planting your plant, do not use too much peat moss in the amended mix.
• If planting any plant in the direct sun after the middle of May, use a "sun shield" or something to deflect the sun from drying out the base of your new plant. Keep this device up for at least two months if drought conditions persist.
• Plant shrubs and trees in the fall, if possible. The roots will continue to settle in and extend most of the fall. By planting while the temperatures are cool, you can eliminate much of the stress from the heat and peak drought time in June or July. Planting a shrub or tree in May or June usually does not allow adequate time for the plant roots to become established.
• Mulch all plants to help keep the ground cooler, retain moisture better, and reduce weeds that compete for available moisture.
• Use moisture "gels" that can be mixed into the soil when you're planting. These gels expand and retain existing moisture longer. Use this especially in those areas beyond your hose.
• Don't plant "beyond the tip of your hose"! Your plants may need more water than nature is going to provide, and you'll need to supplement with water from your well or water line.
• Water existing trees and shrubs that are in the ground very slowly and deeply before the ground is frozen. This heavy fall watering will carry the plant well into the spring with little or no natural precipitation, enabling the plant to go into the spring and summer without stress.
• Use native plants. They have adapted over time to the climate, the soil, the time of rainfall, drought, and frost. Thus native plants possess certain traits that make them uniquely adapted to our local conditions, providing a practical alternative for landscaping, conservation, and restoration. In addition, native plants can match the finest cultivars in beauty, while often surpassing nonnatives in resistance to drought, insects, and disease.